Earlier this month, we treated ourselves to a rare Michelin-star experience at The Harrow, Little Bedwyn (the latter is the name of the village). Run by Roger and Sue Jones, this restaurant has built an exceptional reputation with guests from near and far. Roger is a highly acclaimed wine judge and with his wife Sue, travels the world looking for new food and drink experiences to introduce to their customers. Sue greets guests at the door and takes time to engage in polite conversation – something of a rarity these days.
The interior is divided up into sections, giving a lively yet intimate atmosphere for diners, allowing you to have a conversation without an impromptu game of Charades to make yourself understood!
The food menu is a journey of discovery, with various a la carte and tasting menu options. The basic tasting menu will set you back £50 per head, plus £10 for cheese if you wish. For those wanting to push the boat out, you can opt for the £75 menu, which has wines paired with each course. If it is your first time at Harrow, the wine pairings are a good option as the wine list is in all honesty a challenge to get through even for the most seasoned wine drinker. Testament to Roger and Sue’s extensive travels and exquisite tastes; they even have a wine from Japan.
The beauty of the wine and food pairings is that you can get the true experience of a perfect foodie marriage.
We began with an amuse-bouche, my favourite thing at posh restaurants, which arrived in an espresso cup…inside was a thick, red soup made from Tomato and Watermelon. A gazpacho with a cheeky hint of spice. I am not usually a fan of cold soup and Mr Heinz would be turning in his soupy grave, but this was a masterful creation using the humble tomato and “warmed up” the taste buds perfectly for the feast that was to ensue.
Next we were served Cured Wild Salmon and Cucumber Sorbet with small slithers of ginger a la sushi. But this was no ordinary sushi. The salmon was a deep orange, thick and juicy with a slight smokiness. It literally melted in the mouth. The ginger gave a nice bit of heat and the cucumber sorbet, a pleasant freshness. At first I found the sensation of an ice cold ball of cucumber a little overbearing, but when combined together, you can absolutely see what the chef is trying to achieve.
Following our fishy starter, we then had Grilled Wild Sea Bass atop creamy potatoes with a Lobster Dumpling elegantly sat alongside. All perfectly cooked, the sea bass was meaty, exceptionally fresh and worked extremely well with the slightly richer lobster dumpling, which surprisingly didn’t overpower the subtle fish. What I loved about this dish was the fact you could eat each part separately or together and it still worked. Sometimes there are so many flavours, a dish can become disjointed.
The meat course comprised Welsh Lamb, Minted Cous Cous and Isle of Wight Tomatoes. The lamb came as a cutlet on top of a pulled pork-style crisp pastry roll. It was accompanied by a rich, flavoursome sauce, with, of course, the perfect amount (a bugbear of mine in most restaurants serving meagre portions of gravy). A beautiful tower of minted cous cous provided the perfect accompaniment to the meat and the tomatoes added a burst of sweetness bringing the dish together. I didn’t realise the Isle of Wight was famous for tomatoes, but they really were impressive.
By now, we were getting a little full and had to decide whether or not to tackle the cheese course. In the end we decided to share one, which was a great idea as there was plenty to go around between two. The selection of crackers had been carefully thought out to complement the cheeses (which I discovered having devoured the blue cheese on the “wrong” cracker). Not that it mattered if you mixed them – all of the cheeses were delicious regardless of the cracker they adorned, but to satisfy your curiosity, there was a biscuit made from sweet almonds, which was destined for the creamy, slightly tangy blue cheese. Sue kindly brought us more of the cheese so we could experience this combination and explained that they stopped buying cheese from France long ago as the UK produce some fantastic alternatives. They are very much in favour of supporting local businesses and produce.
After a short pause, we moved on to the “Pre-dessert” – oh yes, this is a real thing. A cocktail glass filled with scrummy cherry trifle, with a generous dash of liqueur and an intense chocolate-y filling topped with light and fresh cream. How chef managed to pack so much flavour into a cocktail flute I don’t know, but I am now officially a trifle convert.
The piece de la resistence was – “Chocolate”. It needs no other introduction. A thing of beauty made up of a de-constructed, sweet, nutty macaron, a solid dark chocolate macaron filled with luxurious fondant, a sumptuous chocolate brownie topped with a chocolate circle and a fresh, fruity blackcurrant sorbet. All pulled together by a salted caramel tuile. Whilst the dessert was rich, each component offered the right balance so you didn’t feel uncomfortably full afterwards, yet the flavours danced wonderfully in the mouth. If you have no other reason to visit this place, you MUST go for this dessert. Be quick though as they change the tasting menus regularly.
Our second experience of Harrow at Little Bedwyn was as good as our first. Impeccable service, with enough time in between each course, friendly and knowledgeable staff and above all else, great value for money. Sure, it isn’t somewhere most of us would go every day, but compared to some well-known chains where the quality is rather overstated given the price, Harrow is excellent value for money.
We will soon be offering an exclusive promotion to our Club members to enjoy this remarkable place for themselves. We can even recommend some excellent activities for couples, friends and families to keep you entertained before (and after) dinner.
Happy indulging,
The Real Champagne Team